Great Wine Lists

by JB Budney

Wine bottlesGreat wine lists are a key component of fine dining. Fortunately several top Tahoe restaurants have compiled lists that include offerings from trophy vintages to great value wines. Here’s my take on the best of the books.

 

SOUTH SHORE

Evan's American Gourmet Cafe: Evan and Candice Williams’ restaurant’s wine list is firmly focused on domestic wines. Wines primarily from California, Washington and Oregon support their "American Gourmet" concept, and allow them to offer selections from "lesser-known, smaller wineries that people might not find on their own," says Evan, who is also a wine judge, serving on the State of California State Fair Commercial Wine Competition panel for the past 8 years. Prime placements like Darioush, Kistler and Domaine Serene are interspersed with Sierra foothill wines from Wilderotter, C.G. Di Arie and Lavender Ridge. Evan's generally carries from 225 to 275 different wines by the bottle and 10 wines by the glass.

Nepheles: Nepheles owner Tim Halloran has been honing his wine program for over 30 years. A predominately California selection reflects the restaurant’s regional menu; well-known wineries like ZD, Pine Ridge and Ferrari-Carano share the limelight with intriguing choices from Orin Swift, Scott Harvey or Merry Edwards. The list includes 140 wines, several half-bottle choices and 15 to 20 selections by the glass. Halloran’s Proprietor's Page features 30-plus wines, all ten years or older, as well as Tim's pick for the month. 

Ciera Steak + Chophouse: MontBleu's flagship restaurant has a 310-bottle---36 by the glass---wine list to match the most mature in the Basin. A Captain's List spotlights hard-to-find gems from Grace Family Vineyards and Chateau Lafite Rothschild collections. "We are continually bringing in new wines that have received some of the highest ratings," says MontBleu's food and beverage director Corinna Osborne. Ciera also offers prvate wine storage in its cellar, available for up to four bottles.

Pacific Crest Grill & Bar of America:There's red wine, pink wine and white wine—how about green wine? You'll find it at Pacific Crest Grill & Bar of America, where managing partner and wine director Peter Fain has devoted more than two pages of his list to wineries that practice sustainable, organic and/or biodynamic farming. Owner Ed Coleman developed the wine program with an emphasis on boutique, hard-to-find wines, specifically pinot noir, which he says, "easily pairs with just about anything on our menu." The restaurant carries around 400 wines, up to 20 by-the-glass offerings and around 25 half-bottles. Fain says he is "adding more quality, value-driven wines and, most importantly, trying to recognize wineries that do their part to least impact the planet."

Moody's Bistro & Lounge:Under the guidance of accomplished sommelier Joseph Nase, Moody's now boasts over 700 international selections. Top-rated California producers, first-growth Bordeaux and Premier Cru Burgundies are layered between excellent Rhone, Italian and New World offerings. In addition to 115 half-bottles and 25 by-the-glass pours, the menu features seasonal flights—or create your own flight by combining three-ounce tasting portions. Moody's has just built a 5,000-bottle wine cellar behind the kitchen; a wine bar is in the works as well for the enclosure and expansion of the patio. 

SQUAW VALLEY

Graham's at Squaw Valley: Rich Trottnow, who heads the wine program at Graham's has over 700 selections on his list, including about a dozen wines by the glass, and as many as 50 choices in half-bottles. The 15,000-bottle cellar is deep in California wines, and top cabernets such as Robert Mondavi Reserve, Far Niente and Jordan can be had in five-plus year verticals. Trottnow says he believes in the “ageability of California wines," and that "proven performers are the better bet, but treasures are where you find them."

PlumpJack Café at Squaw Valley: Food and beverage manager Justin Jelinek, along with colleague Steve Lamb, has put together a reasonably priced 500-bottle list that covers all the bases—and then some. The focus is on California wines; some are hard-to-get Napa players like Araujo and Abreu, others are classics like Caymus Special Selection, Chateau Montelena Estate and Ridge Monte Bello. PlumpJack has 30 wines in half-bottle, and over a dozen wines in magnum. Twenty wines by-the-glass include a three-wine seasonal flight that changes weekly.

NORTH SHORE

Spindleshanks: Spindleshanks co-owner Steve Marks has been shaping the North Shore's wine scene for more than 25 years; he was the reigning headwaiter and sommelier at the venerable Le Petit Pier way back in 1983. Extensive kitchen experience, beginning at the Pier and continuing through his 16-year ownership of Tahoe Vista’s former Boulevard Cafe gives him an insider’s edge when it comes to food-and-wine pairings. His 200-plus bottle list includes California's finest wines and a knowledgeable representation of European winemaking. Marks also offers imaginative wine flights, 22 wines by-the-glass and 42 half-bottles, including, he says, “wines people may never try otherwise."

Jake's on the Lake: Jake's has had 30 years to find the perfect balance of flavor, price and place on its wine list. Nearly 80 selections (17 by the glass, 6 in 375 milliliter) are spread across the major varietals. The mostly California collection boasts big names like Heitz, Duckhorn and Silver Oak, along with a few international offerings. Manager Tim Hill says his team chooses wines by committee, "looking for a group consensus on taste, name recognition, price point and availability." The restaurant grew up with the California wine industry—Silver Oak has been on the list since 1978—with a list built not for racking up awards but made for the restaurant’s customers.

Wolfdale's Cuisine Unique:Full disclosure here: The wine list at Wolfdale's is my work. Smallish (maybe 200 bottles, including over two dozen half-bottles) by comparison to some, our wine list is structured to go with chef-owner Douglas Dale's food, reflect the tastes of our guests and respond to favorable trends in wine consumption. Rose wines, chenin blancs and Rieslings have garnered support lately, so we are now offering more choices in those categories— especially since they pair well with our menu’s Asian flavors. We always seek to offer value at all price points; we also like to have a few bottlings available for those who want the latest, the classic or the hard-to-get. 

 

JB Budny has been a waiter and the wine buyer at Tahoe City’s Wolfdale’s Cuisine Unique since the late 1980s. He estimates he’s opened over 20,000 bottles of wine in his career.
 

HOMESEEKERS TAHOE

Mountain home articles: