Great Wine Lists
by JB Budney
Great wine lists are a key component of fine dining. Fortunately several top Tahoe restaurants have compiled lists that include offerings from trophy vintages to great value wines. Here’s my take on the best of the books.
SOUTH SHORE
Evan's American Gourmet Cafe: Evan and Candice Williams’ restaurant’s wine list is firmly focused on domestic wines. Wines primarily fromNepheles: Nepheles owner Tim Halloran has been honing his wine program for over 30 years. A predominately California selection reflects the restaurant’s regional menu; well-known wineries like ZD, Pine Ridge and Ferrari-Carano share the limelight with intriguing choices from Orin Swift, Scott Harvey or Merry Edwards. The list includes 140 wines, several half-bottle choices and 15 to 20 selections by the glass. Halloran’s Proprietor's Page features 30-plus wines, all ten years or older, as well as Tim's pick for the month.
Ciera Steak + Chophouse: MontBleu's flagship restaurant has a 310-bottle---36 by the glass---wine list to match the most mature in the Basin. A Captain's List spotlights hard-to-find gems from Grace Family Vineyards and Chateau Lafite Rothschild collections. "We are continually bringing in new wines that have received some of the highest ratings," says MontBleu's food and beverage director Corinna Osborne. Ciera also offers prvate wine storage in its cellar, available for up to four bottles.
Pacific Crest Grill & Bar of America:There's red wine, pink wine and white wine—how about green wine? You'll find it at Pacific Crest Grill & Bar of America, where managing partner and wine director Peter Fain has devoted more than two pages of his list to wineries that practice sustainable, organic and/or biodynamic farming. Owner Ed Coleman developed the wine program with an emphasis on boutique, hard-to-find wines, specifically pinot noir, which he says, "easily pairs with just about anything on our menu." The restaurant carries around 400 wines, up to 20 by-the-glass offerings and around 25 half-bottles. Fain says he is "adding more quality, value-driven wines and, most importantly, trying to recognize wineries that do their part to least impact the planet."
Moody's Bistro & Lounge:Under the guidance of accomplished sommelier Joseph Nase, Moody's now boasts over 700 international selections. Top-rated
SQUAW VALLEY
Graham's at Squaw Valley: Rich Trottnow, who heads the wine program at Graham's has over 700 selections on his list, including about a dozen wines by the glass, and as many as 50 choices in half-bottles. The 15,000-bottle cellar is deep inPlumpJack Café at Squaw Valley: Food and beverage manager Justin Jelinek, along with colleague Steve Lamb, has put together a reasonably priced 500-bottle list that covers all the bases—and then some. The focus is on
NORTH SHORE
Spindleshanks: Spindleshanks co-owner Steve Marks has been shaping the
Jake's on the Lake: Jake's has had 30 years to find the perfect balance of flavor, price and place on its wine list. Nearly 80 selections (17 by the glass, 6 in 375 milliliter) are spread across the major varietals. The mostly California collection boasts big names like Heitz, Duckhorn and Silver Oak, along with a few international offerings. Manager Tim Hill says his team chooses wines by committee, "looking for a group consensus on taste, name recognition, price point and availability." The restaurant grew up with the
JB Budny has been a waiter and the wine buyer at
